REPORTAGE."We are talking about 150,000 jobs" : in Italy, the war in the Middle East accentuates the difficulties of the already weakened fashion sector

At Scandicci, on the outskirts of Florence in Tuscany, in the kingdom of luxury leather goods, Andrea Calistri presents the latest handbag model from her house, which sells for 800 euros each. The products created in the workshop, adjacent to the offices, are sold mainly in Japan, the United States, as well as in Europe and the Middle East, but the period is difficult. “In the first months of the year, our turnover fell by 20%”he notes, at the end of May. The war in the Middle East is yet another calamity for an activity that has been suffering for several years. Times are tough. Ten businesses are closing every day and production was down 6% in 2025, according to the confederation of artisans. On Wednesday May 20, in a rare occurrence, Italian unions called a strike at Kering, which employs around 6,000 people in Tuscany.

International news is hitting hard the independent leather goods business of Andrea Calistri and his 20 employees. “The palladium for bag accessories comes from Ukrainehe explains. We have rawhides that have to pass through the Strait of Hormuz. But the number one problem is global insecurity. Stores that resell our products pay for the merchandise six months before being delivered. In today’s world, making a commitment six months in advance is difficult for everyone.” While Rosi, 26 years in the house, adds a leather strip to another model, Andrea is keen to note a small uptick in orders in recent weeks.

There is less worry at Andrea Calistri than at this other company, Arpass. Spools of thread, weaving machine, here we make ribbons, belts and other accessories, the boss is Francesca Poggiali. “That’s a type of trimmings that we do for the Anglican Church”she said. But the main customers are the large luxury groups, or rather were. “Our turnoversays Francesca Poggiali, has collapsed by almost 60% since 2022.”

“The Russian clientele was very important for the world of luxury. Now, it is those from the Emirates who are leaving.”

Francesca Poggiali, the owner of Arpass

on franceinfo

“We are developing our products and our customers, said Francesca. We are targeting smaller brands, start-ups, because the big luxury groups no longer order anything from us.” The cash flow from the good years and the departure of five employees out of 16 allowed Francesca to invest to relaunch. The company is fragile, but not in danger.

In Scandicci and in the neighboring district, there are 30,000 employees and more than 5,000 companies (in general, mainly fashion, editor’s note). But in the fashion sector, their number has decreased by 22% over the last four years.
In Scandicci and the neighboring district, the fashion sector brings together 30,000 employees and more than 5,000 companies, but their number has decreased by 22% over the last four years. The international context comes in addition to a more structural crisis on this global market. “It’s going very badly,” recognizes Simone Balducci, the president of CNA Moda, the artisans of the sector.

“The tastes of new generations have changed. We prefer to treat ourselves to a trip than a luxury item. Chinese growth is no longer the same and there is a fundamental phenomenon of relocation, like that of textiles in England for cost reasons.

Simone Balducci, President of CNA Fashion

à franceinfo

“With this reorganization, continues Simone Balducci, the Italian sector is almost entirely dependent on French luxury groups. Really, things are going very badly.”

Between reduced orders and increased in-house manufacturing, these luxury giants are no longer a foolproof business guarantee for Scandicci SMEs, far from it. Kering, in particular, which directly employs around 6,000 people in Tuscany, recently presented a recovery plan aimed at doubling its margin rate. For Massimo Bollini of the Flictem CGIL union, this development risks leading to job cuts. He believes that the entire sector in the region is in danger. “Two years agohe says, fashion represented 17% of economic activity in Tuscany. We are talking about 150,000 jobs. Here, in Scandicci, an overwhelming majority of residents make their living from fashion in the broad sense. It would be a bloodbath with thousands of people out of work, we can’t afford that.” Job cuts have also begun for the Alexander McQueen brand.