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REPORTING. Music: U2, a deep and discreet imprint on the city of Dublin

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REPORTING. Music: U2, a deep and discreet imprint on the city of Dublin

« Image of Bono » par Louis le Brocquy (2003), à la prestigieuse National Gallery of Ireland.

National Gallery

Bono en MacPhisto, dans la salle « U2 : made in Dublin » du Little Museum of Dublin.

Bono en MacPhisto, dans la salle « U2 : made in Dublin » du Little Museum of Dublin.

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However, there are numerous tourists each year who follow in his footsteps, spanning the River Liffey via the white footbridge of the Ha’Penny Bridge, the backdrop for one of the very first official photos of the group, in 1980.

In the Dublin museums, Bono shows up. At the National Gallery, there is a disturbing pointillist portrait, between those of Shane Mac Gowan and Bob Geldof. At the Little Museum of Dublin, a statue depicts him as an imp (nicknamed MacPhisto) in a dedicated room. As for the very touristy Irish Rock’n’Roll Museum, in the Temple Bar district, it is mainly through relics collected by fans that the group tells its story.

In front of the Irish Rock'n'Roll Museum, in the very touristy Temple Bar district...

In front of the Irish Rock’n’Roll Museum, in the very touristy Temple Bar district…

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Twice in Hell

Pedestrian tours inevitably pass through the University of Trinity College, founded in 1592. The prestigious examination center, traditionally nicknamed “Hell”, faces the chapel called “Paradise”. “Bono went to ‘‘Hell twice,†smiles Mick Lagan, Dublin musician and historian. “It was at Trinity that he saw The Clash in 1977, and it turned his life upside down.” Under the low arcades of the cafeteria, U2 gave the first of its ten concerts at this university. It was only a beginning group, between 1978 and 1980.

Under these arcades, in the Trinity College cafeteria, U2 gave one of their first concerts in 1978.

Under these arcades, in the Trinity College cafeteria, U2 gave one of their first concerts in 1978.

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To think that four guys from here managed to climb so high is a source of inspiration: it means that it’s possible…

“U2 is synonymous with Dublin,†says Ray McAdam, 42, and mayor since 2025. “When in 2020, in Stephen’s Green park, they received the honorary title of ‘‘Freedom of the city’, the highest civilian distinction there is, it was a major event, and the city was jubilant. Everyone loves them. To think that four guys from here managed to climb so high is a source of inspiration: it means that it’s possible…

Jasper Ryan, from Jackie's Parents: 'Dublin owes them a lot'.

Jasper Ryan, from Jackie’s Parents: ‘Dublin owes them a lot’.

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Jasper Ryan is 23 years old and has never seen U2 in concert. With new wave mane and smoky eyes, this passionate musician plays in two groups with dark sounds (the neo-punk quartet WifeSwap and the trio Jackie’s Parents). “Dublin owes a lot to U2, particularly for its notoriety in the world of rock. It’s true that we would like them to support young musicians more. Everything is so expensive here: a rehearsal session is 70 euros… To record, we had to go to Belfast.”

Asked about the absence of solidarity infrastructure that U2 could have financed, the mayor smiled. “I don’t have to tell Bono what he should do with his money.” He won’t discuss the flop of the “U2 Tower”, an aborted skyscraper project on the edge of the docks. Nor on the tax exile in the Netherlands, in 2006, of the publishing company of the gang with 200 million albums sold. “We make music, but we also do business,” Paul McGuinness, the group’s charismatic manager, usually retorts.

Ray McAdam, Mayor of Dublin: “Everyone loves them here.”

Ray McAdam, Mayor of Dublin: “Everyone loves them here.”

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On the streets of Dublin, U2 seems both everywhere and nowhere.

On the streets of Dublin, U2 seems both everywhere and nowhere.

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Au studio de Windmill Lane

Since the 1960s, the population of the Dublin metropolitan area has more than doubled: it now exceeds 1.5 million inhabitants, or a third of those of Southern Ireland. Logically, the architecture has been profoundly modified. And between Grand Canal and Ringsend, the current trendy district where web giants and chic hotels are located, was once that of dockers and less fortunate workers.

In the studio corridors

In the studio corridors

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Aidan Alcock, sound engineer and current manager of the Windmill Lane Recording Studios complex.

Aidan Alcock, sound engineer and current manager of the Windmill Lane Recording Studios complex.

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It was there, in a then industrial setting, that Windmill Lane Studios was created in 1987. Initially specializing in traditional Irish music, this recording studio changed its credo after U2 made their first three albums there: “Boy” (1980), “October” (1981) and “War” (1983, with the hits “Sunday Bloody Sunday” and “New Year’s Day”).

“The Edge layered an incredible number of guitar tracks to invent his signature sound…” reports Aidan Alcock, sound engineer and current studio director. “They were so young that Larry, the drummer, had to have his father’s permission to stay out so late.”

In 1990, the studio moved a few streets away, into a stunning Art Deco building, open to visitors. In this complex bought and then resold by the singer Van Morrison, all the elite paraded: David Bowie, The Rolling Stones, Kate Bush, Bruce Springsteen, U2 again…

On the walls, gold and platinum records are lined up like marks of a golden age. The one where U2 reigned over the world’s sound system. And brandished like a standard his attachment to this city where Bono, The Edge, Larry Mullen and Adam Clayton still live, both omnipresent and invisible.

The ghosts of Slane Castle

50 kilometers north of Dublin stands Slane Castle, an 18th century castlee century, historic place in the founding of Southern Ireland. In 1981, a major concert (with U2 opening for Thin Lizzy) was organized there by the lord to finance maintenance work on the building. “It worked so well that it became an annual festival, the largest in the country. We can say that our family was saved by rock’n’roll,” smiles his son, Marquis Alex Conyngham, current owner.
“In 1985, U2 stayed at the castle for six months to record their 4th album, “The Unforgettable Fire†. I was 10 years old then. There was a rumor that the castle was haunted. U2 had set up their equipment in the dining room, and played at all hours of the day and night. And when they got to work, they often found their instruments out of tune… Facetious ghosts? Nothing like this: as soon as they went to sleep, my brothers, my sisters and I would secretly go and play with their guitars! »

Marquess Alex Conyngham was 10 years old when, at the invitation of his father, U2 moved to Slane Castle for six months.

Marquess Alex Conyngham was 10 years old when, at the invitation of his father, U2 moved to Slane Castle for six months.

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Slane Castle: 50 kilometers north of Dublin, an important location in U2's career.

Slane Castle: 50 kilometers north of Dublin, an important location in U2’s career.

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