International report – Syria: in Aleppo, the slow reconstruction of the old city to revive its souks

From our special envoy with Dana Alboz, back from Aleppo,

The centuries-old souks of Aleppo, crossroads of the “Silk Roads”, are slowly coming back to life.Historically, each souk was dedicated to a specific trade: the copper souk, that of perfumers, etc.“, explains Nour Habak, the director of the citadel, who shows us around these 14 km of labyrinthine streets.

The souks contain many hidden treasures. In the courtyard of the Halawiye Mosque, which awaits restoration, a jewel from the 12th century is hidden behind a concrete wall. Nour Habak shows it to us on his phone: it is one of the most beautiful mihrabs in the Arab-Islamic world. “This mihrab was protected at the start of the revolution thanks to a double wall of concrete blocks, in case the building was hit by shells. As we can see, we can distinguish the traces of the fragments. I have mixed feelings, he confides, I am relieved that this mihrab is safe even if I am sad not to see it. »

Also readSyria: the shifted intentions of Gulf investors for the reconstruction of Damascus

Rebuilding according to Aleppo tradition

But this mihrab is an exception. 60% of the souks were damaged or destroyed according to the UN. The destruction suffered is dizzying, no one knows how long the reconstruction will take.This whole part was on the ground, the roof and the shops, shows Ghaith Makansi, the architect who has led the restoration of the souk since 2018. It is an open-air museum. We have no room for error. At the end, the market owners will be able to return to their shops.» A project which must be carried out in accordance with Aleppo tradition. “My father taught me my trade, we pass this know-how from one generation to the next“, says Sameer Saeed, stonemason.

A few alleys have already been renovated, but business owners like Mahmoud Soubhi, a keffiyeh seller, are impatiently awaiting their turn.If this artery reopens, it’s as if blood starts circulating in the market again and people will come back. Because many customers come, see the destruction, then no longer continue their way down, underlines the seller. All my life, I stayed in this store, I never left it. Everything dies, but the souk will come back to life thanks to the population. Thanks to the people who live there. »Â

Rebuilding Aleppo and more broadly Syria is an immense construction site which, according to the World Bankwill cost more than 200 billion euros.

Also readSyria: the government regains control of Aleppo, the first displaced people return