At Najaf, a holy city in Iraq, the majestic sanctuary of Imam Ali is immersed in an unusual calm: its vast courtyards, once crowded with pilgrims from around the world, including many from Iran and Lebanon, are now deserted.
In neighboring markets, traders and hoteliers are passing the time. Days are dragging on as they wait for visitors to revitalize local activity.
Typically, millions of Shiite Muslims from around the world flock to the holy cities of Najaf and Karbala every year. However, the war in the Middle East, triggered by an American-Israeli offensive against Tehran on February 28, has interrupted this constant flow from Iran, Lebanon, the Gulf, India, and Afghanistan.
“Iranians were our livelihood, whether you were a jeweler, fabric merchant, or taxi driver. Today, they are no longer here,” laments Abdelrahim Harmouch, owner of a jewelry store in Najaf.
Engulfed in regional conflict, Iraq has closed its airspace to missiles and warplanes since the outbreak, while strikes have targeted American interests and pro-Iranian armed groups within the country.
For 38 years, Mr. Harmouch has operated his shop in the old covered market, just a few meters from the golden-domed mausoleum of Ali, the son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad, fourth caliph of Islam, and the first Shiite imam.
In the holy cities, “we rely on religious tourism,” he emphasizes, warning that if the crisis continues, the entire population could face bankruptcy: merchants unable to pay rent, taxi drivers without clients, and laborers struggling to find work.
Hotels have closed down, and Abou Ali, a 52-year-old hotelier, had to lay off five of his employees. Now, he retains only one to maintain his 70 empty rooms, questioning how to pay salaries without work.
According to Saeb Abou Ghneim, president of the Najaf Hoteliers Association, 80% of the city’s 250 establishments have shut down, leaving over 2,000 employees jobless or on unpaid leave.
This is a second major blow to the sector after the Covid-19 pandemic.
In a country marked by decades of chaos, pilgrimage is virtually the only form of tourism and remains a cornerstone of the Iraqi economy aside from oil.
Previously, Moustafa al-Haboubi, 28, dealt with crowds changing currencies continuously. Now, like his colleagues, he is idle on his phone or chatting with neighbors.
The situation is similar in Karbala, 80 kilometers to the north, where the shrines of the Prophet’s grandsons, Imams Hussein and Abbas, stand.
The wide esplanade connecting the two golden domes and the adjacent alleys, once filled with fervent believers, are now only frequented by locals.
“The situation is dangerous… it’s a catastrophe,” says Israa al-Nasrawi, tourism committee official.
She notes that the war has devastated the local economy, causing about a 95% drop in visitors and forcing hundreds of hotels to close.
The city is dotted with travel agencies, but their operations have come to a halt.
Akram Radi mentioned that his company is now operating at only 10% capacity after welcoming up to 1,000 visitors per month. After 16 years in the industry, he fears having to shut down his business.
