In anticipation of the “Poland-France season” planned for 2027, the Franco-Polish friendship takes shape in the charming form of Vincent Dumestre in Krakow. As the leader of the Poème Harmonique ensemble, he has been the artistic director of the Misteria Paschalia festival since last year, which resonates baroque music in the most beautiful historical sites of the former royal capital.
Despite being pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, followed by the Nazis and Bolsheviks, Krakow’s architectural heritage (Renaissance and baroque) remains almost intact. Vincent Dumestre excels in aligning repertoires and venues. Recognizing that there is no bad acoustics, only unnatural unions, the fifty-year-old musician is known for his openness, effectiveness, and above all, his daring and enthusiastic nature.
Tonight, Vincent Dumestre conducts a program dedicated to the Seicento era (Monteverdi, Cavalli, Rossi, Allegri, etc.) at the Carmelite Basilica, one of the favored churches of the people of Krakow. Musicians and singers gather before the altar in a candlelit atmosphere reminiscent of Barry Lyndon. Among them, a harp produces soothing chords, while an unusual wooden instrument, resembling a flute but sounding like a trumpet, captures attention – it is a cornet à bouquin.
Vincent Dumestre leads the performance seated among the musicians, sometimes observing as a vigilant participant rather than the initiator of the concert. Occasionally, he sets the tone by strumming the lute or guitar. The exceptional singers, especially Perrine Devillers, bring out the natural beauty in even the most extraordinary sounds. The maestro has assembled a stellar cast, delivering the music with perfection without undermining its spiritual strength. In Allegri’s Miserere, candles gradually extinguish, symbolizing souls ascending to the infinite.
Following a chamber music concert in another church at 10 p.m., the charms of Krakow beckon. A visit to the Market Square is a must, where the statue of poet Adam Mickiewicz and the Basilica of Our Lady of Krakow stand. Tomorrow, exploring the old town, admiring the beautiful altar at the Czartoryski Museum, strolling in the Planty Park, and losing oneself in Kazimierz, the miraculously preserved Jewish quarter, are recommended activities.
The next day, a visit to the construction site of the future Center for Music, set to open in April 2027, reveals a rectangular complex costing over 75 million euros. Designed by a Krakow architect, it will host the Capella and Sinfonietta of Krakow, international orchestras, and opera productions.
In the evening, at the Krakow Philharmonic, the Misteria Paschalia festival presents Bach’s Passion according to St. John with the Wroclaw Baroque Orchestra. The magnificent music captivates the audience, with tenor Ian Bostridge standing out among the talented performers. The performance unfolds amid the artistry of the Cloth Hall, where Jan Kochanowski’s poignant sculpture embraces his dying daughter.
Vox Luminis, led by Lionel Meunier, performs Sebastiani’s Passion according to St. Matthew, delivering a moving rendition of the German composer’s work. The intense music and hard seats make the emotional journey challenging, culminating in a stunning performance of Agostino Steffani’s Stabat Mater, showcasing the harmonious blend of Italian flair, German precision, Walloon fervor, and Polish heart.
This blend of passions across Europe’s musical landscape breathes life into the old continent once again.
